Brand and Kit Number: Bandai 0191406
Media: Injection Plastic
The X-wing is a starfighter used by the Rebel Alliance during the Galactic Civil War. It is so-named due to how it resembles an X when its S-foils are locked in attack position. It is armed with a laser cannon on each S-foil and proton torpedoes. X-wings are designed for dogfighting and long range missions and is capable of unassisted hyperspace jumps. Like most of the Rebel Alliance starships, the X-wing has deflector shields that greatly enhance its survivability in combat.
The X-wing starfighter is the backbone of the Rebel Alliance Starfighter Corps and was prominently featured in the Battle of Scarif, Battle of Yavin and Battle of Endor.
Info from Wookieepedia
Bandai’s X-wing starfighter is fully snap fit and features:
Out of the box, the markings only builds into Luke Skywalker’s Red Five from the Battle of Yavin.
Well, it’s a Bandai kit, so it snaps together perfectly with only a few seamlines. The only part that doesn’t fit perfectly is the clear canopy: I had to trim a bit on both parts before they snapped together.
Colors & Markings
At first, I was going to model this as Red Five. Then I watched Rogue One and thought I’d do this up as one of the Blue Squadron X-wings. But in the end, I went with modeling this X-wing as Wedge Antilles’ Red Two instead. Wedge is a fascinating character:
And yet, he barely had 10 lines of dialogue in the whole trilogy. Before Walt Disney bought the Star Wars license, Wedge’s story was expanded greatly (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Wedge_Antilles/Legends). Since the take over, he has been retconned as a young Imperial defector (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Wedge_Antilles) in the early days of the Rebellion.
So decided, I went ahead to research the markings for his X-wing during the Battle of Yavin. The 2 sources that I relied heavily on were:
I also came across some interesting facts about Red Two and the X-wings in general while researching.
Armed with the reference photos, I went ahead and masked and sprayed all the markings. I also handpainted Wedge’s helmet and his R2-A3 astromech based on the references.
For the base, I only used the Death Star surface plate and this was quickly painted over a black base, washed and drybrushed.
Since trying to replicate all the chips and streaks is an exercise in futility, I decided to go my own way with weathering. I did follow 1 prominent detail of Red Two which is a clean panel on the port upper nacelle. Weathering was handpainted chipping followed by panel wash and streaking with oil paint. I tried to go easier on the chipping and it seems to work out better than my Snowspeeder build.
In actual time spent, this kit didn’t take long to finish, but it was and on and off build between other builds so time-wise, it took a while. As usual with Star Wars kits, this was an immensely fun build with minimal fuss. Highly recommended for any Star Wars or sci-fi fan.
Number 6 of 2017
Adam West has passed away at the age of 88 from cancer.
Besides the one from the Super Friends cartoon, Adam West was THE Batman of my childhood. The show was campy as heck with the BAM! BIFF! POW! onscreen visual effects, the ‘Bat’ prefix in front of every gadget and the general silliness of the plots, but I was mesmerized nonetheless. It’s made more interesting since Adam West is pretty much the only straight man in the whole thing. I didn’t really see Batman as a serious character until I saw Batman: The Animated Series.
Good night ol’ chum. Thanks for the memories. Rest well.
The following is a general step-by-step on how I finish my model kits. First up is a primer base oF black. I prefer black now over other colors because if I miss some areas later with the main colors, it’s pretty much instant shadowing. The final tones definitely don’t look the same compared to painting over brighter primers but I’m not that hardcore about color accuracy nowadays.
Nowadays I also like to add some tonal variations to the color scheme and have been turning to using white for this purpose.
Then it was a thinned coat of the main color. In this case it was Insignia White which is a very very light gray. I would have stopped here if this was a 1/48 scale kit, but the patchiness look over-scaled for 1/72.
So I went over with an even thinner coat of Insignia White.
I’m modeling Wedge’s Red 2 and based on reference photos, it has beige color accents all around the X-wing. These were all masked and sprayed. Note the chipped paint on the inside of the bottom s-foil. Sure looks natural doesn’t it? 😀
Next are the red markings which I also masked and sprayed. I based the dimensions of the chevrons on the s-foils from the decal sheet, which cames with Red 5 markings only. Why didn’t I just use the decals and cut off 3 bars to make Red 2? It’s because I wanted the red color on the wings and the nose to match. The nose stripes on the decal sheet weren’t unbroken as needed for Red 2. Red 5 also didn’t have red accents on the engine nacelles.
Weathering is next and I begin with chipping. Ever in need of practicing making chipping look random, I went ahead with chipping by handpainting.
I used a 000 brush to do all the chipping.
I ended up using 5 different colors for my chipping do show various ‘ages’ of the paint chips.
Then it was my usual wash with a very diluted raw umber oil paint. I then added some black to the wash and added darker streaks.
One last detail I added was a clean panel on the top port engine nacelle. There are pictures on the Internet that shows the studio model of Red 2 having this particular detail. This was simply masked off and carefully sprayed white. I then added some light chipping with light gray. This replicates a newer replacement panel which I think adds more to the look of a heavily used machine.
Another thing I tried to replicate was the look of ignited thrusters with combinations of red, transparent red and white colors. I’m not sure I pulled it off that well though. Anyway, it’s all a learning experience.
In any case, I’m done.
I’ve heard rumblings of this and was surprised that it wasn’t announced at Shizouka 2017, but here it is after all. Bandai has labeled it as ‘Perfect Grade’ which means it’ll probably include all the bells and whistles, including the light-up bits. Based on their Star Wars products so far, this will be a gorgeous kit.
It’s going to cost… glurk… 40,000 JPY. More details soon. Meanwhile, a lot more pictures on Taghobby.
This is quite a surprise. Bandai has announced the Renewal version of the Soul of Chogokin GX-13 Dancouga. I have the original DX Chogokin Dancouga from the 1980s and this one runs circles around that one in all sorts of ways. This Renewal version looks to be more anime-accurate compared to GX-13. Looks real good.
I’ve always wanted to get the original GX-13 Dancouga. In fact, I went as close as holding one in my hands. But sanity reined and I put it back on the shelf. I hope I can resist this one. It’s coming in October for 27,000 JPY.
In the middle of getting bogged down with the fitting issues of my F-5, I decided to get this already snapfitted kit done. As usual, it was a joy to snapfit and 99% of it doesn’t require cement.
Out of the box, this builds into Luke Skywalker’s Red 5 from the Battle of Yavin, and it comes with both decals and stickers for everything. The only detail I added was drilling out the barrels of the laser cannons.
The only pre-painting I did was the pilot and cockpit. When I started this was supposed to be Red 5, so the pilot has the default white helmet.
I however, decided to make my life more difficult and build Wedge Antilles’ Red 2 instead. I found 2 sources online with references for Red 2, including the actual studio model. So armed with the correct color scheme, I first went ahead and repainted the pilot’s helmet into Wedge’s.
The cockpit was a mix of paint and decals with some light dry brushing.
Masking (lots of it), painting and weathering are next.
Sir Roger Moore died today at the ripe old age of 89. He was the first James Bond to me. My first memory of James Bond was The Spy Who Loved Me with the rather cheesy Moonraker being the most memorable (not necessarily best) entry. In fact, The Spy Who Loved Me remains one of my three favorite Bond movies ever.
He was suave, funny with his quips and mostly, always cool. Even when a 6’5 steel-toothed giant was trying to bite his throat off.
Good Night Sir Roger Moore, thanks for being a part of my childhood. Rest well. Oh and f**k cancer.
To prep for painting, I began with masking off the cockpit, adding the HUD and attaching the windscreen.
The instructions called for aluminum for the wheel bays but I only had Model Air Metal Steel on hand. I think it looks close enough.
All the landing gear and doors were also painted steel separately.
The exhausts and engine housings were painted Vallejo Metal Jet Exhaust, left to cure for a day and then masked off. The exhaust cans themselves will be attached during final construction.
I went through a few rounds of checking seemliness and joints, using whatever paint that was available.
Painting begins with a base coat of AK Black Primer.
Then I mottled Model Air Insignia White over the whole surface. I still have the habit of mashing the trigger so my mottling is uneven. Guess I shouldn’t try to tackle WW2 German mottle camouflage just yet.
The F-5 I’m modeling deployed with the 1 brown 2 green South East Asian camouflage. I began the camouflage with free-handing the brown with Model Color US Tan Earth.
My bottle of Model Color is close to a decade old and it took quite a bit of thinning and retarder before my airbrush could spray it. Even so, it sputtered and dried at the tip quite often.
The reference I have for the camouflage is from Twobobs’ 48-216 F-5E PACAF Gomers #2 sheet. Like my previous experience with the F-16 using Twobobs’ decals, the camouflage demarcation lines don’t line up, so I guesstimated some of the lines to line them up better. I used rolls of blutack and backfilled the rest with masking tape.
I used AK Interactive’s Medium Green for the lighter green color. The AK paint, being a newer formula (I believe Vallejo has reformulated their line in recent years) thinned and went on more easily and the mottling shows through more.
I then added more blutack and backfilling with masking tape for the darker green shade. For this I used AK Interactive Dark Green. However, the tone wasn’t darker at all so I added a drop of Model Air Black Grey to darken it.
The color looks good, but I lost almost all the mottling details on the dark green.
I’ll need to do touch-ups next: fix the chipped paint, add definition to some of the demarcation lines, reduce the patchiness of the lighter green and bring back some patchiness to the brown and dark green areas.
Don't mind the missing images on old posts. My server had to be rebooted and I pretty much lost a ton of content.